These are the prized Harumanis variant, which most mango connoisseurs consider equivalent to the premium Musang King and Black Thorn versions in the durian realm.
The first few rays of the morning sun have just started piercing through the distant horizon when a small group of men slowly make their way towards an orchard located by the foothills of Bukit Chuping, one of the numerous limestone outcrops dotting the picturesque Perlis countryside.
Making sprightly progress even with wheelbarrows in tow, they soon find themselves surrounded by neat rows of mango trees with boughs heavily laden with fruits.
By then, darkness has ebbed sufficiently to provide enough light for Datuk Rick Cheng and his men to fan out and start inspecting the fruits, which have been individually wrapped by hand with custom-made paper bags several months earlier when the mangoes were about the size of a human thumb.
Prized variants
Throughout the entire fruiting season, utmost care is taken when handling these mangoes, as they are not from any run-of-the-mill variety. These are the prized Harumanis variant, which most mango connoisseurs consider equivalent to the premium Musang King and Black Thorn versions in the durian realm.
Taking the lead, Cheng reaches out for a fruit nearby and, without removing the paper bag, skilfully assesses its suitability for harvesting just by his experienced sense of touch.
“Perfect! This grade A fruit is slightly soft to the touch but yet still sufficiently firm!” the Harumanis mango farm founder exclaims in jubilation before carefully unwrapping the protective paper bag to reveal an unblemished, uniform green fruit the size of an adult palm.
Cheng (right) grows the high-demand Harumanis mango, while cafe manager Tan turns the smaller fruits into cheesecakes, tarts and ice cream.
Before plucking, Cheng puts the fruit to a final test. He is completely satisfied after placing it close to his nose and inhaling deeply to take in the delightful aroma that only ripe Harumanis mangoes can exude.
“Harumanis mango skin remains green even when the fruit is ripe. As such, the best technique to determine ripeness is when a fragrant aroma is detected and the fruit is supple when pressed gently,” he explains further.
When the fruit is harvested, Cheng highlights the fact that the phloem sap that spurts out from the severed stem is the ultimate proof of freshness.
“Now the clock starts ticking. The fruit is only at its best over the next three to five days and should be eaten within this period. After that, the quality deteriorates rapidly. This is among the many reasons why Harumanis commands a premium in terms of price compared to the other types of mangoes,” he clarifies further.
Disappointment turns to opportunity
As harvesting progresses, the established property developer recounts the incident about a decade ago that made him fall headlong into the agricultural sector.
It all began over 10 years ago when Cheng was left utterly disappointed when this 23-acre land, which was newly acquired at that time, could not be used for its intended purpose as a housing development.
A selection of Harumanis desserts that make use of smaller mangoes at Caffe Diem Jejawi.
Not one to easily throw in the towel, he started scouting for other ways to put the land to good use. After taking into consideration the ideal sub-annual wet and dry seasons as well as suitable terrain and alkaline-rich soil, the most viable land use option was to plant mangoes. With that, Harumango Sdn Bhd was established.
By that time, the Harumanis was already widely planted in Perlis. Fossil evidence proves that mango ancestry, from where all known modern-day variants hail, evolved simultaneously some 25 to 30 million years ago in areas known today as northeast India, Myanmar, and Bangladesh. Development and cultivation caused it to reach Southeast Asia.
Teething problems
The road to Harumanis success wasn’t an easy one for Cheng, who has suffered many setbacks along the way.
Eager to prove that soil and climate conditions in Perlis are indeed conducive for Harumanis cultivation, Cheng worked closely with the state’s Agriculture Department to plant some 1,300 bud-grafted seedlings on his Bukit Chuping land.
Cheng and his team began their journey with great zeal and enthusiastic hopes of securing recurring bountiful yearly harvests. However, their lofty aspirations were abruptly dashed when they discovered the harsh realities of agriculture.
The first two years proved to be the most challenging. As if the sight of the young saplings ravaged by disease was not heart-wrenching enough, the novice farmers were overwhelmed by various teething problems related to soil fertility and irregular water supply for irrigation.
Local youths Abdul Rahman Razak (left) and Mohd Izhar Hashim hard at work packing mangoes.
Despite lacking in Harumanis cultivation experience at that time, Cheng realised that decision had already been made and the die had been cast.
There was no turning back, and the project had to succeed at all costs. Gifted with the uncanny ability to turn perceived weaknesses into strengths, he became the much-needed stabilising force that helped put his nervous team back on an even keel.
The gradual passing of time brought crucial experience for the farm to start flourishing. Smiles turned into wide grins when the trees started to flower by the third year.
Watching the blooms turn into thumb-sized mangoes for the very first time was nothing short of inspirational for all involved.
Although just a few fruits survived to maturity, everyone gave their best and waited with bated breath for the much-anticipated maiden harvest.
Unfortunately, their joy was short-lived. Turning up one morning to the sight of half-eaten fruits strewn on the ground was nothing short of devastating.
The unexpected overnight raid brought a painful realisation that there were monkeys and civet cats in the vicinity and they had been biding their time to strike when the fruits were ripe.
Although Cheng suspected that the caves dotting Bukit Chuping served as lairs for the animals, he could do little more than hope for larger harvests in the coming years to share with these ravenous local animal inhabitants.
As for the caves, they form an integral part of Perlis heritage after serving as places of refuge for villagers when the area was relentlessly attacked by the Siamese in the 19th century.
Cheng (standing) chatting with diners at Caffe Diem Jejawi, which has become a crowd favourite as it highlights Harumanis mangoes in new and novel ways.
Turning point
A year later, Cheng had to once again fall back on his infallible belief in looking on the bright side of things when the dark days of Covid-19 lockdowns gripped the nation.
True to the saying it is always darkest just before the dawn, the pandemic proved to be the turning point for Harumango Sdn Bhd.
The stay-home notices triggered many human behavioural changes, including the need to consume more fresh fruits to boost resistance and immunity levels.
That trend not only boosted sales for Harumanis home delivery but also saw satisfied customers passing word around to friends and families regarding the coveted fruit’s alluring sweetness, unparalleled fragrance and delicate texture.
Even after the pandemic was over and all 1,300 trees started to fruit, demand has consistently superseded supply every season.
Cheng’s decision to establish Caffe Diem Jejawi, which is part of the AllIn Hotel complex, near the royal town of Arau in 2023 to boost tourism in Perlis, inadvertently helped to solve one of the farm’s perennial dilemmas: how to utilise smaller mangoes and avoid wastage.
The Harumanis ice cream at Bukit Chuping is a crowd favourite.
Under the able guidance of branch manager Tan Khun Wei, Caffe Diem Jejawi’s skilled pastry and dessert chefs came up with novel ways to turn smaller-sized fruits into cheesecakes, tarts and even ice cream.
A smaller Caffe Diem Jejawi outlet was set up at the farm as a result of the overwhelming public response.
Today, even though Cheng provides overnight deliveries to places as far away as Singapore, people from all over Malaysia still prefer to make their way to Bukit Chuping to sample Harumanis mango in its many delectable forms.
As for Cheng and his team, they are not sitting on their laurels. Although much has been achieved over the years with their blood, sweat, tears and sacrifices, they continue striving for excellence, and plans are already afoot to elevate Harumanis mangoes to yet another level.
