You can still see old carvings at the Bhaja Cave Monastery. — Photos: SANDIP HOR
Antiquity captivates my interest. Therefore, upon discovering through William Darlymple’s recent novel, Golden Road, that one of the world’s oldest and remarkably preserved rock-cut Buddhist monasteries is situated at Bhaja village, near Pune in Western India, I prioritised a visit to this ancient site at the forefront of my itinerary during a recent trip there.
Situated approximately 50km west of Pune in a quintessential mountainous setting, Bhaja is regrettably not widely recognised within India’s tourism landscape. Upon my arrival at the site, following a climb of around 250 steps, I found the area nearly devoid of visitors, guides, and vendors. So I was almost alone in a serene environment to appreciate the beauty of an ensemble of sculptures and carvings that were built into the sides of a cliff face of a remote range of hills almost 2,200 years ago.
A total of 22 caves exist, with the great hall serving as the focal point. This hall, known as a chaitya or a place of worship in Buddhist tradition, is entered through a remarkably high horseshoe arch. The wooden frames and roof beams of this gallery have astonishingly withstood the test of time for over two millennia.
At the end of the hallway stands a visually simple stupa, symbolising the presence of Lord Buddha.
A look inside the Mahadev Shinde Chatri.
Most of the caves are embellished with intricate sculptures and carvings, with one cave housing a collection of 14 mini stupas, some of which are believed to contain the ashes of the founding monks of the monastery. The exploration of these caves was an exhilarating experience, with my sense of discovery being as captivating as the examination of the rock-hewn architecture at Petra in Jordan, which also dates back over two millennia.
It’s believed Buddhist monks from all over the world came to Bhaja for studies and some of the caves were used for their dwelling. As I browsed through them, I envisioned being surrounded by numerous Buddhist monks engaged in a harmonious chant of prayers.
Pune as a settlement began coming into prominence at the start of the 17th century and reached zenith when it was an epicentre of the Maratha kingdom led their legendary king Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj who was instrumental in developing Pune from a village to a city. The British gained control of the domain after defeating the Marathas in 1817 and soon became an important seat of their colonial power.
Dotted in the Deccan Plateau, Pune was then called the “Queen of Deccan” for its green-aura engulfed scenic setting, or sometimes aptly dubbed as “Oxford of the East” because of the presence of several elite educational institutions like the Deccan College, Fergusson College and Bhandarkar Oriental Research Institute.
Bhaja Cave monastery.
Today it’s one of India’s most progressive metropolises where proud bequests of the past shake hands with the ultra-modern. It boasts of everything that a 21st century urban quarter needs to have, from luxury hotels, glittering shopping malls, high-rise office blocks and residential complexes and advanced hospitals, to an airport, metro railway and good network of road infrastructure, although it is congested with traffic like any other Indian city.
Its geographical closeness to Mumbai, the commercial capital of India, has fuelled its commercial expansions to become the nerve-centre of many industries from automobile and engineering goods to electronics and information technology.
While enjoying the comforts of contemporary time, it was interesting for me to dive into the city’s bygone era by visiting a rich tapestry of landmarks that pledges to engage anyone historically minded and culturally astute. I treasured the regal splendour of Shaniwar Wada, a Maratha-built bastion, and the tranquil elegance of Aga Khan Palace, where the British interned Mahatma Gandhi for two years during his fight for India’s independence. There’s also the architecture of Mahadji Shinde Chhatri, cave art of the 8th century excavated Pataleswar Temple and the vastness of Singhagad Fort built centuries ago to protect the city from enemy attacks.
Pune served as the domain of Emperor Shivaji, and thus, the locations linked to his life attract numerous visitors. Notable sites include Shivneri Fort (his birthplace), Laal Mahal or the Red Palace, situated in the city centre where he spent a significant portion of his life, and Rajgad Fort, which functioned as his capital.
Some of the stupas inside a cave at Bhaja.
Researchers assert that from 250 BCE to 800 CE, India held a prominent position as a leader in culture and trade. The cave temples at Bhaja serve as evidence of this historical significance.
Regrettably, during a considerable part of both the medieval and modern eras, India’s brilliance was overshadowed by the rule of foreign powers, notably the Muslim rulers from Central Asia and the British colonisers. However, after 75 years of independence from British rule, India’s remarkable advancements demonstrate that the tide has turned, and the nation is experiencing a resurgence. Observing the extensive development in Pune, I found this assertion to be valid.
Travel notes
How to get there: Malaysia Airlines flies direct from Kuala Lumpur to Mumbai in India, from where Pune is well connected by air, rail and road.
Where to stay: There are many accommodation options, like the Sayaji Hotel Pune, in the city.
Local tour operator: It can be overwhelming trying to find a local tour agent to take you around Pune, but the Eastbound Group is a good and trusted option.
